Fire Walking at Mt. Mitoku

On Sunday October 25th I went back to Mt. Mitoku for another spiritual event, Mt. Mitoku's most famous festival. This time I would not be walking up the mountain, but walking across fire. I joined many other ALTs, and together we went to the base, where the festival was already underway. At the festival you could buy a headband which would allow you to walk through the fire, wooden planks that you could write wishes on which would be burned as part of the festival, and eat the monk's porridge free of charge, which warmed us up on that rather chilly Sunday. I also managed to grab some ramen from a local shop who had set up a stall at a nearby cafe. The deck had a fantastic view of the valley adjacent to Mt. Mitoku.

Wandering the grounds I happened to run into my school's librarian and nurse, who were also planning on walking the fire. They mentioned a concert would be starting soon. Prior to the religious rituals, an Enka concert was held on the festival grounds. Enka is a particular type of music genre that is particularly popular with older generations, but the music is pretty good. The second performer was particularly charismatic, with impeccable style. As he sung he often shook hands with the audience (myself included), and at one point, event ventured out into the crowd. He was a huge hit! After watching two really impressive performances, the religious ceremonies began.



The festival consisted of a procession of a large party of monks proceeding up to the temple, blowing on large, conch-like shells rather liberally, where they offered a long prayer before proceeding to the main festival grounds. At the main grounds a variety of rituals were preformed (with even more conch). First the monks acted out an old folk tale which I believe had to do with the history of the ritual, and also probably explained the elaborate attire. Afterwards an archer shot arrows into the crowd, where those who caught them got to keep them for good luck. Ceremonial weapons were then used to maybe bless the bonfire wood prior to ignition. At one point some speeches were made about sponsors of the event. Then the fun began.




First they lit a large bonfire with kindling which created thick white smoke and burned incredibly fast. The wishes written throughout the day were then burned within the fire. Next, the path was set ablaze. As the fire calmed, the monks rotated the scorched logs and built a low bridge sitting over the still burning fire, laid salt at the beginning, and began to allow people to cross. During the entire ritual one particularly grizzly sounding monk bellowed a stirring chant throughout the complex. I still distinctly remember his voice, which added to the intensity and epic feeling of the ritual. As people cross over the fire it is said that earthly desires are burned away, leaving one cleansed. It is also said if the walk is hot or if someone is burned by the fire they possess many earthy and impure desires. With the weather being rather chilly, I thought the walk was rather nice, so that either means my feet were really cold, or I'm a rather content person.


At the end of your walk you are given some mochi, which was a nice treat before we set off to grab sushi that evening.


I appreciate how Japan blends their religious customs with more lighthearted, modern sensibilities. It makes the events more approachable for a foreigner like myself, and also more fun for everyone I would imagine.